BMW Dealer Parts Rip-Off

BMW X5 - Dealer Parts Rip-Off

Not every part of a BMW X5 is available from a non-dealer source and not every part that is available from a non-dealer source is as good as the dealer part, but there is no doubt that BMW dealers charge rip-off prices for readily available parts. If you can, buy a good quality part from a non-dealer source and either install do-it-yourself (DIY) or find someone who will install for you.

Background:

- BMW X5, 4.4l, model year 2000.

- Bought new.

- 129,700 miles

- Dealer maintained for 7+years until they overfilled oil and did not install new oil drain plug gasket!

Dealer rip-off:

Now in the back of my mind, I knew, I really did, but it was not until after I had an alternator failure and dealer charged me $1100 for a rebuilt Bosch and I found out that I could by the very same, the very same rebuilt from numerous Internet suppliers for $400 or less. $1100 from deal and $400 from every where else? And I am not talking $1100 for parts and labor, just the alternator!!!!

Now I understand profit and profit is fine but when it is the same, identical part and dealer cost is less than $400 and they charge $1100 that is a rip-off!

Do-it-yourself (DIY) or find a good mechanic:

After dealer service quality deteriorated to the point I could no longer trust them, I have been doing any sort of mechanical work I can (can not balance 19 inch wheels, etc.) and have saved a ton in parts cost alone. Most recently, catalytic converter went out on wife's Z3 and dealer wanted $2100 to install a new one. I bought a good replacement over the Internet and installed myself at a total cost of about $800.

I do know that not every one has the time, tools or skills to DIY but if you could find a decent mechanic that would install the parts you bought for the X5, you could save a ton of money over dealer parts and service.

Honestly, $1100 for the same identical part from multiple sources for $400?

BMW "Check Brake or Rear Lights

BMW X5 - "Check Brake or Rear Lights

How to replace brake lights and rear brake light on BMW

only 1 out of 10 times has the problem actually been a bulb. Most often display when extremely moist outside, like rain for days. Problem is connection between bulb holder and rear tail lights assembly. Hassle to fix cause tight quarters but definitely a do-it-yourself (DIY) job.

Background:

BMW X5, 4.4i, model year 2000, 133,700 miles.

"Check brake lights" or "Check rear lights" display.

Tools needed:

- Electrical contact cleaner (sold at home improvement stores and Radio Shack).

- Small needle nose pliers.

To replace brake lights:

You get to brake or rear lamp assemblies (attached to SAV) by removing the access panel on each side.

A connector off the wiring harness connects to the tail light light assembly and provides power to 3 lamp holders via bare metal strips around the holes in the light assembly that are used to hold the lamp holders.

There are 3 plastic lamp holders per side that rotate clockwise into and lock in the light assembly and rotate counterclockwise to unlock and remove from the light assembly.

The 3 lamp holders have "keyed" tabs on them such that they can only lock in place one way.

The 3 plastic lamp holders have metal contacts on them that are bent inward or towards the installed lamp such that when the lamp holders are placed into the hole in the light assembly and rotated to lock, they make contact with the bare metal electrical junction of the light assembly.

Ok, you get a "Check Brake or Rear Light" message and determine which lamp is out by having the car turned on and some one stepping on the brake pedal for you or placing the car into reverse.

You remove the applicable lamp holder, buy a new lamp, install it in the lamp holder and place the lamp holder back into the light assembly.

All is well or well for a while and then you get "Check Brake pr Rear Light" again.

A test reveals that the lamp you just replaced is "out" again.

Lamp holder needs adjustment:

While the design of the lamp-holder-to-light-assembly is mechanically sound, not so much electrically.

In a 12 volt direct current (VDC) system, corrosion at the junction of contacts can disrupt electrical flow and in the case of the brake and rear lights, the junction between the wiring harness connector and light assembly and lamp holders and the light assembly are open to the air and thus damp air can and will corrode the non-copper contacts.

So, whenever you have to replace a brake or rear lamp or if you are getting "Check Brake or Rear Lights":

- Unplug the wiring harness connector from the light assembly.

- Spray contact cleaner onto the contacts of the connector and then onto the contacts of the light assembly.

- Let the contact cleaner dry, evaporate.

- Reconnect the wiring harness connector to the light assembly.

- Remove lamp holder and spray metal contact(s) with electrical contact cleaner.

- Using small needle nose pliers, bend the lamp holder metal contacts toward the lamp.

Now when you reinstall the lamp holder into the light assembly, it may be a little tougher to turn and lock into place but at least you know the electrical junction between the lamp holder and the light assembly is sound.

Finally, should you break the contacts of a lamp holder, simply buy a new lamp holder but use contact cleaner.

BMW X5 Battery - Alternator And All Wheel Alignment

BMW X5 - All-Wheel Alignment

The BMW X5 requires an all-wheel alignment. This should be done when new tires are placed on the sports activity vehicle (SAV). It is not necessary to have an alignment done at a BMW dealer as most places that do alignments, can align all wheels of the X5.

Background:

BMW X5, 4.4, model year 2000, 145,000 miles as of this date.

All-Wheel alignment:

You should get an all-wheel alignment on the X5: after installing new tires; after any sort of suspension work and after any sort of collision repairs.

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BMW X5 - Battery and Alternator

Background:

BMW X5, 2000, 4.4L, 143,000 miles
Battery:
Original BMW battery replaced twice in 6 years. Would die suddenly without any warning at all. No longer use BMW batteries.
To ensure X5 electrical does not leak drain battery, have installed a Priority Start. Priority Start disconnects battery from X5 if voltage of battery drops below a set threshold. Priority Start an insurance policy.
Alternator:
Headed out on trip. Got 20 miles from home when alternator light came on suddenly and car began to buck and run rough. Got off Interstate and made it to service station. As I pulled into service station, "Transmission Fail Prog" displayed and car died completely.
Could be battery but more likely alternator. Tried to start car but nothing. Did not want to get car towed 50 miles to dealer and knew service station did not have alternator and that it would take hours for my drained battery to be charged, so bought a new battery and had service station install it.
With fully charged new battery, more or less, in battery box area, started car and drove 20 miles to home. Once home, charged battery again and then drove to dealer.
The BMW X5 uses a water cooled Bosch alternator. Because of the potentially high current loads of power ported cars, more and more, water cooled alternators are being used. By water cooled, I mean alternator has an in and out water hose connected to it.
When told I had "special water cooled alternator" quoted price of $1200 plus install. What choice?
But there is a choice. You can buy a rebuilt Bosch water cooled for the X5 from many places on the Internet for $600 and then have a local repair shop replace it for you.
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