Hesitates on acceleration

hesitates on acceleration

• Mondeo IV -08 2.5T hesitates on acceleration. 
• Torque comes in waves through the rev-band, but gets ok over 4k revs.
•  More pronounced at half throttle then full. Have a P061A code.

 Tried changing the boost solenoid with no change. Any ideas?

I Suggest:

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth cleaning out the throttle body as these get clogged up with carbon and some brake cleaner washed through helps free things off.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks, its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile.

This Will Help.

Thanks.

How to change the battery in aprilia rs 125

 RS 125 Aprilia Motorcycles Battery Replacement

You have to follow few steps:
Lift the fuel tank.

Disconnect first the negative (-) and positive (+).
Remove the breather pipe (1).
Unscrew and remove the screw (2).
Move the coolant expansion tank (3).
Remove the battery from the bay and place it on a flat surface in a cool, dry place.

If necessary, remove the box holder, unscrew and remove the screw (4).
WARNING!!! - reassembly, pay attention to the first vent pipe and connect the cable to the positive terminal (+) and then one on the negative (-).
IMPORTANT Removing the battery you have to reset the digital clock.

Good luck,

Warning Light On BMW X3 E83 2007

ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ON

BMW X3 E83 2007 - the three warning lights plus eratic speedo plus erratic radio volume.

On any car if you get a check engine light or other fault light this typically means one or more of the sensors has failed or has a faulty connection.

The fault can be something quite simple and nothing that’s going to stop the car to something quite major that will reduce engine power and possibly stop the engine.

The ECU senses this and may put the car into 'limp home' mode which typically limits the revs and the amount of power available. Usually the car is safe to drive for a short distance as the mode is intended is intended to get you home without incurring any engine damage.

The quickest route to repair is to have the car plugged into a diagnostic machine which will read off the fault code stored in the ECU (providing the light is still on at this point) and indicate which sensor has failed or whether the fault is more serious.

You can do a very rough and ready check yourself by unplugging sensors one at a time and seeing if any of them change the driving condition which would indicate the most recently unplugged sensor is the faulty one. This method is not foolproof though and reading a fault code off is the better method.

From your description I'd say its unlikely to be a failed fuse and may be a poor earth connection

the fault code will provide a better route forward though.

You can also try resetting the car by removing both battery leads and clamping them together for 10 mins as this will reset everything so if the light re-appears then the fault is still there.

Disconnect the battery cables and clamp them together for 10 mins. Remove both battery leads from the battery then use a nut and bolt or G-clamp to hold both battery lead terminals together.

This discharges any capacitors / memory within the ECU and around the car so ensures all memory settings are wiped clear - back to the factory default.

This will reset all the systems on the car and you may need the radio security code to get it going again, and ensure that the keys are in your hand when you re-connect the battery as the car may lock and turn on the alarm.

This will Help.Thanks.