How To Replace Ac Belt On BMW 650i

BMW A/C Belt replacement Procedure

The ac belt on your car is a strech belt with no belt tensioner. There is a BMW special tool (64 1 040) to hold the belt to the compressor pulley so when the engine is turned with a ratchet, the belt will walk onto the pulley.

They make a special tool to take this off and put it on. Pretty much when putting it on all you have to do is put the belt on the crank pulley and partially on the a/c compressor pulley. Then there is a special tool you clamp to the pulley on top of the belt. Then spin the crank pulley by hand and stretches it right on.

Buy a Gates K040325 belt. Feed it over the big pulley (harmonic balancer). Have someone under the car push the belt over the pulley as someone up top has a socket on the harmonic balancer pulley. Pull the harmonic balancer with socket to turn the engine and the belt will walk right on. This belt is just a little bigger and will not spread like the factory belt. All the BMW mechanics hate this job. Follow this step and get the Gates belt and problem solved. Beats the heck out of a $1,000 repair from BMW.

I just did this job. It's miserable. You can't do it alone. Three common options - (1) there is a special tool sold by the common online BMW suppliers. You still need a second person to turn the crank and guide it on simultaneously. (2) Lisle makes a tool that is much cheaper and they have a youtube showing how to use it. Third, and what I would do next time, is there is a mounting boss for a tensioner on the N62. It's the same tensioner as used on the alt/PS side. You need a different belt length. I found this while searching 550 forums for advice on how to do this job.

There is not a tensioner on that belt and I need to know the procedure to put a new one on.
I figured it out:

1) You have to remove all of the bolts on the compressor.
2) remove serpentine belt
3) loosen vibration dampener bolts(do not remove)
4) take new belt and stretch it. I used a hydraulic jack for this. Do not over stretch. Leave belt on stretcher for 30 minutes.
5) put new belt on vibration dampener and then on front lip of compressor pulley. This will be a very tight fit but can be done.
6) put car in neutral
7) use large socket on breaker bar to spin engine by hand. As you spin engine (this step takes two people), twist belt where it starts to go onto compressor pulley. The belt should walk itself onto pulley up to about the last rib.
8) tighten all of the loose bolts on compressor and dampener.
9) rerun serpentine belt.
10) crank car
11) with car running (from underneath), use a big screw driver to just tweak the front of the belt as it spins on the pulley. The will make the belt hop over the final track into place.

Who knows why BMW engineers thought it was a good idea to engineer a belt system without a tensioner!

Also Check this link for More Details With pictures:
BMW AC BELT REMOVAL

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BMW 740 Belt Replacement for 4.4L V8 (M62 Engine, E38)

Tools You’ll Need:



A – 17mm socket (1/2 drive)
B – 13mm socket (3/8 drive)
C – 10mm socket (3/8 drive)
D – 3/8” ratchet
E – 1/2” ratchet
F – 3/8”x6” socket extender
G – 3/8”x3” socket extender
H – ½”x3” socket extender
J – Large adjustable wrench (1.50” capacity) -or- BMW special tool 11 5 040
K – Phillips screwdriver
L – Breaker bar that fits over adjustable wrench and large ratchet (optional)
M – Home-made water pump pulley holder (Step 3) -or- BMW special tool 11 5 050.

Procedure:

1. Remove the cover from the bottom of the engine with a Phillips screwdriver. The screws take about one turn to disengage and do not come out of the cover. I put my car on jackstands to give me some extra working room, but this is not absolutely necessary.



2. Before you replace anything, it’s a good idea to make sure you need to replace anything… I certainly needed a new main belt. In addition to the clearly obvious cracks below, I’ve had a tick-tick-tick from my engine for about 6 months. I confirmed the noise was from the belt by drawing a line across the belt with White-Out. Then, I ran the engine and heard/saw a distinct synchronization of the tick-tick-tick noise with the passing flash of the white line. My AC belt seemed pretty good (no cracks), but I figured I’d replace it anyway.



3. While you can buy a purpose-made tool to hold the water pump pulley, you can easily make one at home. Go to Lowes or Home Depot (or the like) and get a steel bar 1/8” thick, 1” wide, and 2+ feet long. Drill a 1/2” hole as shown below. 



4. On the left side of the engine (as pictured), place the hole in the special tool over one of the water pump pulley hex heads so that the 1/8” web is toward the nut (it’s the only way it will fit). Make sure the special tool is firmly positioned against the pulley and in command of the hex. Turn the fan nut clockwise to loosen the nut. The fan threads are special left-hand threads that do not obey the classic lefty-loosey, righty-tighty mentality. Make sure you treat the plastic fan blades with respect. It is possible to damage – but not break – the blades so that when you reinstall the fan and run the engine the fan can explode.



5. Without dropping the fan, loosen the nut until the fan is separated from the engine. The fan needs to be removed by lowering it out from the beneath the car, so gently set the fan down inside the radiator shroud so that you can reposition yourself. Lie down on the ground in front of the car and carefully remove the fan from the car. It’s probably a very good idea to meticulously inspect the fan blades for any signs of cracking. You should also check the fan clutch to make sure it still turns smoothly and freely, albeit with a heavy viscous drag. Both my fan and viscous clutch seemed fine (knocking on wood as I type).

6. Locate the main serpentine belt tensioner just behind where the fan just was. Use a 13mm socket and extension to loosen the two bolts indicated below. These are not particularly tight, but once you loosen them, the belt tension will be immediately relieved and there might be a popping noise as the tensioner smacks into the engine’s main balancer pulley.



7. By lying under the front of the car, remove the belt from the engine. If you are planning on putting the belt back into the car, the TIS recommends that you mark the direction of rotation on the belt so that it can be reinstalled in the same direction. As you can see, there is no risk of me reusing my old belt. Holy cow!



8. If you’re replacing the AC compressor drive belt as well, it’s time to loosen its belt tensioner. The AC compressor belt tensioner is very obvious under the front of the car. Loosen the 13mm bolt, then the 10mm bolt to relieve the force, just like you did for the main serpentine belt.



9. Remove the AC belt from around the compressor, idler, and engine. As I mentioned earlier, my AC belt looked fine and I probably could have lived with it for many more miles, therefore I have no egregious pictures of a truly worn belt.

10. Install your new AC belt, routing it just as the old one was. The AC compressor pulley is straightforward and easy to get the new belt centered. The main engine pulley has two sets of grooves: the rearmost set is for the AC belt and is separated from the main serpentine path by a taller rib. Make sure the AC belt is riding in the correct set of grooves and the belt is centered over the compressor pulley. The idler pulley should be pushing into the back (smooth side) of the belt, just as pictured above.

11. The belt tensioner is very easy to set up. Pre-tighten the 13mm bolt, just enough to take up play but not so much that you can’t turn the tensioner. Use your 17mm socket to turn the large, cast-in-place hex (shown in red in the previous illustration) clockwise until the 10mm bolt bottoms out in the slot. Most of the travel will be simply moving the idler into contact with the belt, but the last fourth of travel will be used to compress the spring in the tensioner, so it’s a bit tougher. With the 10mm bolt bottomed out against the top of the slot, tighten securely*. Remove your 17mm socket and securely tighten the 13mm bolt*.

*Often, the TIS does not give tightening torques for various screws. In most cases, the TIS recommends tightening torques based on screw size and strength rating. Unless there is a specific reason to tighten a screw to a given torque value, most manufacturers and guidebooks recommend torque values for screws that create a nominal amount of tensile preload in the screw body. Anyone who has worked with screws and bolts before knows what tight feels like… and that’s what the torque values usually represent. Long story short, tighten the bolts until they’re tight, keeping in mind that overtightening could strip the threads or break the bolt, and undertightening could result in the belt tensioner slipping. 



12. Install your new main serpentine belt as shown in the diagram from the TIS (below). The belt takes quite a few twists and turns, so make sure you’ve followed the diagram. I found it easiest to install the belt by lying under the front of the car. Make certain that you’ve properly located the belt in all of the pulleys so that the grooves match up. All of the ribbed pulleys have large outside lips that you should be able to see next to a properly installed belt. If your belt looks like it’s teetering on the edge of a pulley (or if you see an “extra” groove in the pulley), you need to reposition the belt.



13. The belt tensioner for the main serpentine belt is analogous to the AC belt, but access is more difficult because it’s not as easily visible. I used my 1/2” ratchet with a 3” extension and 17mm socket to turn the cast-in-place nut. I used my 3/8” ratchet with a 6” extension and 13mm socket to secure the tensioner once forced into position. Start by tightening the pivot bolt “A” to take up play, but not so tight as to inhibit rotation. Then, turn the 17mm cast-in-place nut counter-clockwise to bring the “B” bolt to the top of its slot. This belt tensioner seemed to require much more force than the AC belt, so I had to use an extension on my big wrench to turn the 17mm hex. Once the belt tensioner is loaded, tighten the 13mm “B” bolt securely. Remove the 17mm wrench and tighten the 13mm “A” bolt securely. I found that when I removed the tension with the 17mm wrench, the belt tensioner seemed to relax a bit. I suspect this was because I didn’t properly pre-tighten “A” enough. The TIS lists the tightening torques for the two 13mm screws based on screw strength and build date (see explanation in Section 11): 22 Nm for up to 9/98, 30 Nm for 9/98 and after. I didn’t use a torque wrench, so if my belts start squealing we’ll know I didn’t tighten the bolts enough.



14. Reinstall the fan by inserting it up from underneath the car. It is safe to handle the fan by the blades provided you don’t apply excessive force to them. Just to play it safe, pretend the fan is coated in old TNT and you should be fine. Once you get the fan into position on the water pump pulley, turn the fan by the blades to get it started on the threads. After about half a turn onto the threads, you’ll need to use your big wrench to turn the nut. Once the nut is tight, install your special tool, but this time on the opposite side of the pulley. Use your big wrench and tighten the nut by pushing it counter-clockwise. Remember, the fan uses left handed threads, so you’ll feel like your pushing backwards. The TIS recommends a tightening torque of 40Nm, but unless you have their special tool there’s no easy way to use a torque wrench. In this case, I ballparked 40Nm with muscle strain.

15. At this point you’re basically done, but before you reinstall the bottom cover you should give things a once over: Make sure the belts are properly routed, properly seated, and properly tensioned. Make sure the fan has been reinstalled, tightened, and not damaged. You may wish to start the engine to listen for noises. Make sure when you first start the engine you are not standing next to, over, or under the fan. If you happened to damage the fan during removal/installation, it may come apart when you run the engine. For that matter, I make it a point to NEVER be in the explosion path of the fan whenever the engine is running.

16. Once you are comfortable that everything looks good, put the cover back on the underside of the engine and take the car down off your jackstands. You’re done!

This will help.

Thanks.

How To Replace Flex Disc On BMW

"BMW X5 - Flex Disk"

Between transmission and rear differential are 2 rubber compound flex disks. These disk, over time, begin to disintegrate causing heavy clunk sounds upon hard acceleration or car vibration. Had replaced by independent garage who had a lift. Did not want to be under car with tight quarters to replace myself.

Background:

BMW X5, 4.4i, model year 2000.

150,000 miles.

Heavy clunk noise at rapid acceleration from dead stop. Flex disk at transmission torn.

Because of mileage, had both flex disks and center bearing replaced at one time.

This Will Help.

Thanks.

How To Replace Door Handle ON BMW

"BMW X5 - Outside Door Handles Not Working"

11 February 2014

Most likely cause of exterior door handle failing to open door is failure of door handle carrier as shown above. This is a relatively easy do-it-yourself (DIY) but you need to be cautious of where you procure replacement carriers if not from BMW.

Background:

BMW X5: model year 2000, 4.4i, 187,000 miles.

X5 always kept in garage until winter of 2013-14.

Very cold spell < 20 for week or more.

Went to open driver's side door and door would not open?

Went to passenger side door and door would not open?

To gain access to car, used key Fob and held down unlock button to get windows to move down.

From the Internet, have read dealer will charge $300+ to replace carrier on one side!!

Oh, FYI, the cast aluminum of both carriers fractured up near the door edge and large spring of the carrier attaches.

Replacing door handle carriers:

On the Internet, you can find multiple good websites that describe the procedure to replace a door handle carrier and I will not repeat here.

From BMW, a door carrier is about $90.

There are many 3rd party sources of door carriers. I got both the left and the right for $70.

If you do order from anyplace other than BMW, you need to check the carriers before you begin replacement.

The main thing to check is that the ball socket on the end of the short cable either rotates freely on the end of the cable (my original BMW version did) or if crimped to the cable is oriented 180 degrees from what is shown below.

The ball socket has to fit over a ball tab that sticks up out of the actual door edge locking mechanism and if oriented the wrong way on the cable, the ball socket will not stay on the ball tab.

In addition to checking the ball socket, you need to look at the Allen bolt that is going to hold the carrier to part of the door handle that does not move.

The carriers I got from a 3rd party did not have the Allen bolts oriented correct and thus I had to remove the plastic insert in the carrier Allen bolt hole to get the Allen bolt to properly mate with the exterior door handle.

The incorrect Allen bolt orientation you can easily deal with. An incorrectly crimped ball socket, you can not.

Tips, hints:

Replacing the door handle carriers is not a difficult DIY project but I will add this to what you can find on other Internet websites:

1. The window must be in the full up position.

2. Unhook battery. You must take out the airbag and no messing around with a electrically connected airbag.

3. Once you have all screws out of the inside door panel, the panel should lift up and off the inside window edge but if it does not want to move, try gently pulling the panel from the bottom center. There is a pressed in clip in the center of the panel.

4. I found it easiest to just undo the cables that hook to the door window regulator buttons rather than pry up the window buttons panel snapped into the door panel.

6 The cable that connects to the airbag is odd how it fits and snaps into and out of the airbag. Go slow in removing and reinserting.

7. Careful pull back the foam sound insulation at the corner next to the door handle. The foam can be pressed back into the weather stripping tar run around the edge.

8. You remove the Allen bolt first.

9. Push the handle from the inside and remove the nut holding the handle to the carrier.

10. Pushing the handle from the inside so the handle is actually pushed away from the car, rotate the handle slow clockwise until it is about 30 degrees from where it was and slowly wiggle it out of the carrier. DO NOT YANK OR OTHERWISE ROTATE TOO FAR!!!

11. The old carrier can be removed by playing with it such that it drops down behind the door edge lock mechanism.

12. The new carrier can be moved up into position without having to bend the cable all out of shape. Play with it until you get it. Perhaps straight up from below.

13. With new carrier in place, make sure the carrier metal fits into the small cutout on the outside door and also that the screw hole on the other side lines up.

14. Insert and tighten the sheet metal screw first.

15. Now push the carrier outward from the inside, such that you can put the handle tab into the hole in the carrier and push it in as far as you can and then rotate it counterclockwise until it slips down over the bolt sticking out of the carrier. Again, slow and easy hear as do not want to destroy plastic tabs on actual handle.

This will help.Thanks.

Warning Light On BMW X3 E83 2007

ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ON

BMW X3 E83 2007 - the three warning lights plus eratic speedo plus erratic radio volume.

On any car if you get a check engine light or other fault light this typically means one or more of the sensors has failed or has a faulty connection.

The fault can be something quite simple and nothing that’s going to stop the car to something quite major that will reduce engine power and possibly stop the engine.

The ECU senses this and may put the car into 'limp home' mode which typically limits the revs and the amount of power available. Usually the car is safe to drive for a short distance as the mode is intended is intended to get you home without incurring any engine damage.

The quickest route to repair is to have the car plugged into a diagnostic machine which will read off the fault code stored in the ECU (providing the light is still on at this point) and indicate which sensor has failed or whether the fault is more serious.

You can do a very rough and ready check yourself by unplugging sensors one at a time and seeing if any of them change the driving condition which would indicate the most recently unplugged sensor is the faulty one. This method is not foolproof though and reading a fault code off is the better method.

From your description I'd say its unlikely to be a failed fuse and may be a poor earth connection

the fault code will provide a better route forward though.

You can also try resetting the car by removing both battery leads and clamping them together for 10 mins as this will reset everything so if the light re-appears then the fault is still there.

Disconnect the battery cables and clamp them together for 10 mins. Remove both battery leads from the battery then use a nut and bolt or G-clamp to hold both battery lead terminals together.

This discharges any capacitors / memory within the ECU and around the car so ensures all memory settings are wiped clear - back to the factory default.

This will reset all the systems on the car and you may need the radio security code to get it going again, and ensure that the keys are in your hand when you re-connect the battery as the car may lock and turn on the alarm.

This will Help.Thanks.