This article walks through the process of replacing the oxygen sensor on your Ford F-150 or Super Duty.
Ford F-150 (2004-2014) and the F-250, F-350 (2005-2014).
If your check engine light goes on but you don't notice any symptoms, you need to use a code reader to determine the source of the problem. If the trouble code in your PCM's memory reads P0131, P0133, P0151, or P0153, you could be having trouble with your vehicle's oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor is a clever little component that keeps track of your engine's exhaust and promotes an accurate distribution of oxygen, nitrogen, and fuel. For this reason, bad gas mileage can be both a symptom and a problematic result of a faulty oxygen sensor. This part can be expensive to professionally replace, so you might want to attempt a DIY job if you are able to.
Materials Needed
O2 sensor
penetrating oil
O2 sensor socket
thread chaser
floor jack
two jack stands
Step 1 - Apply penetrating oil to the O2 sensor and let it soak
Locate the faulty O2 sensor which should be positioned in the exhaust manifold just before or just after the catalytic converter. Once you have located the faulty sensor, drench it in penetrating oil, allowing it to soak for at least 24 hours prior to performing the task. This will help you remove it later by making it significantly looser.
Figure 1. Oxygen sensor location.
Step 2 - Park and raise your vehicle
Be certain to park your vehicle on level ground, and put it in neutral before proceeding to raise your truck, utilizing a floor jack and jack stands for support. Keep the parking brake on and rear wheels locked for safety while you lift the front of the truck.
Figure 2. Truck, secured with jack stands.
Step 3 - Thread the O2 socket onto the O2 sensor
Unscrew the faulty O2 sensor by utlizing the socket and thread chaser.
Figure 3. An O2 sensor.
Step 4 - Disconnect the connectors on top of the transmission
The connectors are blue and look just like those in Figure 4. Simply pinch the connectors on either side and pull them apart.
Figure 4. Disconnect the O2 sensor.
Step 5 - Remove the protective cap from the new sensor
Remove the protective cap that the new sensor comes with.
Figure 5. Remove the protective cover.
Step 6 - Thread the new sensor into the old sensor's place
Reverse step 3. Thread the new sensor in the same place the old sensor was with a socket and a thread chaser.
Figure 6. Thread the new sensor into place.
Step 7 - Connect the new connector just above the transmission
The new connector should click right into place where the old connector used to be. Once the sensor has been removed, replacing it is simply a matter of putting new equipment where the faulty equipment was originally positioned.
Figure 7. Connect the O2 sensor.
Pro Tip
Having a malfunctioning oxygen sensor could cause you to fail state emissions. If this component continues to need replacing, it could be the sign of a more serious problem with your exhaust system.
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Ford F-150/F-250 Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement.
If you experience problems with your Ford F-150 or Super Duty's performance, you might be looking at a bad crankshaft position sensor. Learn how to replace the crankshaft position sensor yourself.
Ford F-150 (2004-2014) and the F-250, F-350 Super Duty (2005-2014).
A crankshaft position sensor sends information about the position of the sensor in your Ford F-150 or Super Duty truck to the computer system of the engine. Signs of a bad crankshaft position sensor include problems starting the engine when it’s cold outside, acceleration issues, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. It is found under the AC compressor and can be loosened by sliding it out of the motor, which is found on the bottom left area.
Materials Needed
Crankshaft position sensor
1/2 inch socket wrench
Open end wrench
Compressor pulley
Step 1 - Turn the pulley
Push the tip of the socket wrench in the hole in the center of the serpentine belt pulley, which is a small pulley around the belt. Move the pulley to the left using the socket wrench and pull the belt from the air conditioning compressor pulley.
Figure 1. Serpentine belt pulley.
Figure 2. Pulley diagram.
Step 2 - Move the compressor
Remove the bolt from the air conditioning compressor towards the mounting bracket using an open end wrench, and move the compressor to the side of the engine compartment. The compressor will easily be disconnected; disconnect the hose attached to it using a wrench and free it from the belt.
Figure 3. Move the compressor.
Step 3 - Disconnect electrical connection
Disconnect the electrical connection from the crankshaft position sensor.
Figure 4. Disconnect the electrical connection.
Step 4 - Remove the crankshaft position sensor
Remove the two bolts on the crankshaft sensor of the engine using an open-end wrench and slowly remove the sensor from the engine. The bolts are holding the bracket that holds the sensor on top and on the bottom.
Figure 5. Remove crankshaft position sensor.
Step 5 - Install new sensor
Put the sensor into the engine, install and fasten the two bolts on the sensor using an open-end wrench.
Figure 6. Fasten the bolts.
Step 6 - Connect electrical connection
Connect the electrical connectors together.
Figure 7. Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
Step 7 - Re-install air conditioning compressor
Tighten the bolts for the compressor and connect the hose you removed. Then, place the belt back on it and tighten the pulley.
Figure 8. Fasten and install the AC compressor.
Step 8 - Adjust the pulley
Push the serpentine belt adjustment pulley in the direction of the engine with a socket wrench and place the belt on the air compressor pulley.
Figure 9. Adjust the pulley.
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The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer that provides a signal to the PCM that is directly proportional to the throttle plate position. The TP sensor is mounted on the side of the throttle body and is connected to the throttle plate shaft. The TP sensor monitors throttle plate movement and position, and transmits an appropriate electrical signal to the PCM. These signals are used by the PCM to adjust the air/fuel mixture, spark timing and EGR operation according to engine load at idle, part throttle, or full throttle. The TP sensor is not adjustable.
The TP sensor receives a 5 volt reference signal and a ground circuit from the PCM. A return signal circuit is connected to a wiper that runs on a resistor internally on the sensor. The further the throttle is opened, the wiper moves along the resistor, at wide open throttle, the wiper essentially creates a loop between the reference signal and the signal return returning the full or nearly full 5 volt signal back to the PCM. At idle the signal return should be approximately 0.9 volts.
Removal & Installation
Remove the throttle body (TB).
WARNING
Failure to remove the TP sensor screws in the following manner will result in damage to the screws. First loosen the screws 1-2 full turns using a hand tool and then use a suitable high speed driver to complete the removal.
Remove and discard the screws and the TP sensor.
WARNING
Do not reuse the TP sensor and screws. A new TP sensor and screws must be installed.
NOTE
When installing the new TP sensor, make sure that the radial locator tab on the TP sensor is aligned with the radial locator hole on the throttle body.
To install, reverse the removal procedure and note the following:
Tighten the new sensor screws to 27 inch. lbs. (3 Nm).
5.4L & 6.8L Engines
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Loosen the clamp and position the air cleaner outlet tube aside.
Remove the accelerator cable snow shield.
To remove the throttle position (TP) sensor.
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Remove the screws.
Remove the TP sensor.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Testing
Fig. TESTING the TP sensor signal return voltage at idle
Fig. Test the operation of the TP sensor by gently opening the throttle while observing the signal return voltage. The voltage should move smoothly according to the amount the throttle is opened
Fig. TESTING the supply voltage at the TP sensor connector
Fig. The TP sensor can be monitored with an appropriate and Data-stream capable scan tool
With the engine OFF and the ignition ON, check the voltage at the signal return circuit of the TP sensor by carefully backprobing the connector using a DVOM.
Voltage should be between 0.2 and 1.4 volts at idle.
Slowly move the throttle pulley to the wide open throttle (WOT) position and watch the voltage on the DVOM. The voltage should slowly rise to slightly less than 4.8v at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
If no voltage is present, check the wiring harness for supply voltage (5.0v) and ground (0.3v or less), by referring to your corresponding wiring guide. If supply voltage and ground are present, but no output voltage from TP, replace the TP sensor. If supply voltage and ground do not meet specifications, make necessary repairs to the harness or PCM.
Ford F-150/F-250: How to Replace Throttle Position Sensor
A TPS is the throttle position sensor that gives information to the computer of your F-150 or Super Duty on the position of a car's throttle. Your TPS is responsible for checking your engine to ensure fuel efficiency. If you notice your engine light is on, there are difficulties when you change gears, the gas level drops when the tank is full, your car automatically jerks when driving, the engine suddenly stalls, or you feel a surge in speed when on the highway, these are all signs that your TPS needs to be replaced.
Materials
Paper towel
Flat head screw driver
Carb cleaner
New throttle position sensor
Step 1 - Remove the obstacles
Remove the throttle body cover, then remove throttle body sensor, which is mounted on the front of your mantle fold. Then, take the accelerator cable off using a flat head screw driver by pressing under the part.
Figure 1. Throttle Body Cover.
Figure 2. Throttle Body Sensor.
Figure 3. Accelerator Cable.
Step 2 - Remove the vacuum hose
Figure 4. Remove vacuum hose.
Remove the vacuum hose fitting to access the sensor.
Step 3 - Remove the TPS sensor
Figure 5. TPS.
Figure 6. TPS.
Make sure to remove the TPS sensor and 2 screws that connect to bottom of throttle body. Once the old sensor is off, replace it with the new one. Clean the throttle body really well, then install it back by reversing the steps above.
Pro Tip
When taking off the accelerator cable with the screw driver, remove it softly to avoid breaking the clips.
As a fourth step, you may want to clean the electric part of the valve with carb cleaner.
Remember to clear the memory of your codes after replacing the TPS.
Testing and troubleshooting the throttle position sensor (TPS) on your Ford or Lincoln car, pick up or SUV is an easy thing to do. You don't even need a scan tool to test it. A simple multimeter will suffice and in this article I'll take you thru' the whole diagnostic process step by step.
Below you'll find a list of Ford and Mercury and Lincoln cars, pick ups and SUV this article applies to (although the tests could apply to any Ford vehicle on the road today). Also in this section you'll find the info to make your testing as easy and as uncomplicated as possible.
OK, one last thing before we jump into the article, you can find a complete list of 4.6L and 5.4L ‘How To Test’ articles that are located in this Web Site and at troubleshootmyvehicle.com and this list is found here: Ford 4.6L, 5.4L Index of Articles.
Symptoms of a BAD Ford TPS
The most common symptom is the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL) is on (also known as the MIL=Malfunction Indicator Light) on your instrument cluster and annoying the heck out of you as you drive. Among other things, your vehicle might be experiencing:
TPS diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) stored in the vehicle's computer's memory.
P0121: Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Performance Problem.
P0122: Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Low Input.
P0123: Throttle Position (TP) Circuit High Input.
Really BAD gas mileage.
Transmission does not shift out of second gear.
No power as you accelerate the vehicle.
Hesitation when you step on the accelerator pedal.
What tools do I need?
As mentioned at the opening of this article... all that you'll need to be able to use the info and perform the tests in this article is a multimeter (don't have a digital multimeter? Need to buy one? Click here to see my recommendations: Buying a Digital Multimeter for Automotive Diagnostic Testing).
You may need a helper to perform some of these tests.
Circuit Descriptions of the Ford TPS
As you already may know, the throttle position sensor (TPS) on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle has three wires coming out of its connector. Below are short descriptions of the signal each one carries. This are the Circuit Descriptions that we'll be using thru' out the rest of the article to test the TPS on your vehicle.
Circuit labeled 1:
5 Volts from PCM.
Circuit labeled 2:
Throttle Position (TP) Signal Circuit.
Circuit labeled 3:
Sensor Return (Ground) Circuit.
I recommend that when you test for the particular signal in the wire, that you use a tool to pierce the Wire... such as a Wire-Piercing Probe (click here so that you can see what one looks like: Wire Piercing Probe). Disconnecting and probing the front of the female terminal of the connector can get you into a lot of trouble... if you open up the terminal with the probe you're using.
One last observation... these three circuits go directly to the PCM. So you need to be careful not to short these wires to Power (12 Volts) or you may fry the PCM.
How Does the Ford TPS Work?
Here's some very basic working theory that'll help you to understand the ‘why’ and ‘how’ of the three tests you're gonna' do with the help of this article. OK, in a nutshell.. when you crank and start your Ford vehicle:
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module=Fuel Injection Computer) feeds the throttle position sensor with 5 Volts and a Ground.
This Ground is known as the Sensor Return in Ford tech speak.
As you step on the Accelerator Pedal, the TP sensor translates the amount of throttle plate opening (caused by the accelerator cable) into a voltage signal the PCM can use.
The PCM uses this voltage signal , that will vary with the amount the throttle opens as you accelerate or decelerate the vehicle, to inject fuel, control ignition timing, and the rest of the song and dance the Computer has to do to get your vehicle moving or slowing down.
Pretty simple stuff, no? Well testing it is just as simple. Since you'll be working in the engine compartment, no need to tell you (but I'm gonna' tell you anyway) to be alert and be very careful. Use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. OK, on with the show... go to TEST 1
Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.
1
Remove the bumper cover from the vehicle. Use a door trim panel tool to loosen and remove all the clips/screws that are holding the bumper cover to the vehicle. The clips/screws are located on the end of the bumper cover in the wheelwell and along the top and bottom throughout the cover. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
2
Disconnect any wires or connectors such as fog lights from the bumper. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
3
If there is no damage to the bumper cover set it aside in a safe location. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
4
Locate the bumper brackets on the right and left side of the vehicle below the fender. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
5
Unbolt the bumper brackets from the vehicle. There are usually two bolts that hold the bumper brackets on.
6
Inspect the area around and underneath the bumper bracket location for any damage that may prevent the new brackets from being installed.
7
Install the new bumper brackets with new bolts.
8
Hang the bumper cover on the bumper brackets.
9
Secure the bumper cover in the bumper bracket by sliding it back and forth.
10
Re-install the clips/screws starting on one end and working around to the other.
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Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.
1
Locate your corner light assembly.
2
Inspect the corner light for damage.
3
Disconnect the wire from the back of the corner light. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
4
Remove the mounting screws. Remove the corner light. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
5
Install the new corner light. Tighten the mounting screws and reconnect the wire.
6
Turn on the corner light to verify your repair.
Troubleshoot All types Of Car Problem With proper Solutions
Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.
1
Locate the parking brake lever.
2
On a level surface, pull on the parking brake lever to actuate the parking brake.
3
Place the transmission in drive and release the brake pedal.
4
Place the parking brake control lever in the release position.
5
Disconnect the rear parking brake cable and the front cable from the equalizer bar. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
6
Gain access to the bottom of the parking brake control assembly and remove the front cable from the pivot hole. You should now have the front cable removed from the assembly.
7
Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
8
Remove the wheel and tire.
9
Remove the brake drum from the hub to gain access to the inside of the drum assembly. Rear disc brake assemblies have a disc brake and caliper that will need to be pulled out
10
On the wheel side of the backing plate, disconnect the parking brake cable from the lever attached to the brake shoe.
11
Pull the cable through the backing plate. You should now have the rear cable fully disconnected from the vehicle. Photo may not be specific to your vehicle
12
Replace the damaged cables with their new parts and install.
13
Slide the rear cable through the backing plate and attach it to the parking brake lever.
14
Assemble the brake drum or brake disc assembly to its original condition.
15
Install the wheel and tire. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft lbs .
16
Connect the rear cables to the equalizer, making sure that the routing of the cables are back to their original positions.
17
Connect the front cable to the parking brake control assembly and route the cable to the equalizer.
18
Connect the front cable to the equalizer.
19
Once the parking brake cable is back to its original position, remove the pin in the parking brake control assembly to remove tension.
20
Apply and release the parking brake several times. The self adjusting cable should now have full tension.
21
Road test vehicle and verify the parking brake cable repair.
Troubleshoot All types Of Car Problem With proper Solutions
